08/24/2026
Antiquity is having a moment. My version started in 1988.
As a child in the 70’s, I spent a lot of time at the Met, as it was a convenient dumping ground for creative children on Saturday mornings in NYC. There were classes with thematic tours of the museum. My favorite galleries were the halls of Greek and Roman art.
I went on to study Greek and Roman art history. I had been drawn to the Hellenistic and Roman jewelry from antiquity I saw in the Met long before I started designing, and the technique I created to make these beads and other pieces in the collection grew out of that obsession.
The beads were made from a type of resin clay, which I hand stamped using an eclectic toolkit comprised of a vintage Czech glass scarab, an antique African bell ornament for the spiral pattern, some wood dowels and a vintage glass tile that left a rectangular basketweave texture. I used these same items each time in a random fashion so no two pieces were alike. I then covered everything in gold leaf before drilling the holes and stringing them on leather cord. Other pieces like the earrings, cuffs, and rings were made in the same way for a cohesive look over all, each piece being unique and made to order.
Barney’s New York was the first store to carry this new collection, as they wanted the credit for a Vogue editorial. I kept a Polaroid record of all purchases, and image 6 is their exact order. They ordered a total of 16 necklaces plus the entire collection more or less. The necklace sold for $365 which would be $980 today, adjusted for inflation.
Isaac Mizrahi had styled the Nugget Bead Necklace in his Resort 1988/89 runway and in editorial, including the January 1989 Women’s Wear Daily cover and Vogue, shot by Irving Penn, that same year.
1. Women’s Wear Daily, January 1989
2. Nugget bead detail, Cynthia Rybakoff
3. Nugget Bead Necklace, Cynthia Rybakoff
4. Nugget Bead Necklace and Ear Clips, shot on location, Cynthia Rybakoff
5. Vogue, 1989, Irving Penn
6. Barneys New York purchase order Polaroid, Spring 1989, personal archive