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Are Swiss watch movements good?There's a reason that Swiss watch movements are the industry standard: they're renowned f...
04/25/2023

Are Swiss watch movements good?
There's a reason that Swiss watch movements are the industry standard: they're renowned for their general quality, reliability and precision. Probably (arguably) many of the "best" watch movements in the world are Swiss, whether that means the most complicated, most accurate, have the best finishing or even offer the best value. (Debate amongst yourselves.) The movements we're talking about here, however, are those made by companies that supply them to watch brands.

MS DAVA SOBELLongitude (1996)Image courtesy of HarperCollinsThere were Professors Richard Dawkins and Stephen Hawking wi...
04/22/2023

MS DAVA SOBEL
Longitude (1996)

Image courtesy of HarperCollins

There were Professors Richard Dawkins and Stephen Hawking with their clever blockbusters, The Selfish Gene and A Brief History Of Time, respectively. But then came a little-known science reporter for The New York Times, Ms Dava Sobel, who found herself inexplicably sat atop The Sunday Times’ bestseller list for months in 1996 – the wildcard of 1990s pop-sci literature.

Inexplicable only until you grabbed yourself a copy and found yourself lost in the original horological romp of our time: her account of how a clock-making Yorkshireman, Mr John Harrison, found himself up against the star-gazing noblemen of London in securing £20,000 from 1714’s Board of Longitude and ultimately saving countless lives at sea by enabling navigation east-to-west, using a precise on-board chronometer.

Rip-roaringly written, and infuriating in its account of the British government’s self-regarding obtuseness, Longitude: The True Story Of A Lone Genius Who Solved The Greatest Scientific Problem Of His Time was enough to inspire a BBC TV drama starring Sir Michael Gambon as Harrison.

See also Mr Jonathan Betts’ 2006 book Time Restored, which documents the Royal Observatory’s mission to save Harrison’s four trailblazing marine chronometers from the scrap heap in the 1920s and reanimate them for all to admire. They are now ticking along in London’s Greenwich Park, where longitude’s zero-degree Meridian line is bolted in brass.

A Brief Guide To Watch Finishing01. AnglageThis is the technique for eliminating the edges between the flank of a piece ...
04/21/2023

A Brief Guide To Watch Finishing

01. Anglage
This is the technique for eliminating the edges between the flank of a piece and its surface. You’ll hear “bevelling” and “chamfering” used interchangeably, but technically it is only a chamfer when the angle is at 45 degrees. This polishing process removes any residual burrs left on the pieces after being cut out by machine, which would prevent the smooth running of the movement. It also limits corrosion. It is possible to smooth the outer angles chemically or mechanically with brushes, however, the interior angles, where two bevels meet at an acute angle, have to be done by hand. Some more difficult parts take 10 hours’ work, using tools with increasingly fine abrasives until the desired shine and angle are achieved. The ultimate anglage, mastered by only a few, is a wide edge with a convex cross-section, rather than flat. Again, a result only achievable by hand.

A Look At What Makes These Mechanical Masterpieces TickA timepiece comes to life in the hands of a watchmaker and in Swi...
04/18/2023

A Look At What Makes These Mechanical Masterpieces Tick
A timepiece comes to life in the hands of a watchmaker and in Switzerland, the heart of the luxury watch industry, thousands of expert watchmakers work in their ateliers to craft the best watch movements available today. To understand what makes a mechanical movement so special is to delve into the miniature world of intricate components, precision instruments, engineering ingenuity, and most importantly, a pair of steady hands.

A Swiss mechanical movement, also known as a caliber, does not require a battery to operate like a Japanese quartz movement does; it uses energy from a wound-up mainspring instead. A barrel transfers the energy from the mainspring through a gear train to power the watch. The two main types of mechanical movements are manual and automatic. As its name suggests, a manual caliber requires the wearer to manually wind the external crown, which in turn winds the internal mainspring. On the other hand, an automatic movement gathers energy to wind up the mainspring via the natural activity of a wearer’s wrist.

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