08/05/2026
Exhibitions to Remember : Jewels on Temporary Display that Stay with You Forever.
EXHIBITION: Vanity – 7,000 Brilliant Years of Greek Jewellery.
10 August 2017 to October 2017 at the Archaeological Museum of Mykonos.
THE EXHIBITION
This exhibition at the Archaeological Museum of Mykonos explored the elemental connection between past and present Greek design. “Vanity, Stories of Jewellery in the Cyclades,” hosted by the Ephorate of Antiquities of Cyclades, features over 200 pieces of jewellery dating from the 6th century BCE to the 1970s, plus twelve specially-commissioned pieces from contemporary Greek jewellers.
ANCIENT HERITAGE / CONTEMPORARY CREATIONS
“I am always fascinated by the influence of our ancient heritage on contemporary creations,” said jewellery designer Nikos Koulis, one of the dozen featured contemporary designers. “Jewellery is a deep premise of our culture and society. Greeks not only have an eternal bond with jewellery but have also excelled at its craftsmanship.”
IN AN ADVANCED CIVILISATION, A DESIRE FOR ADORNMENT.
Most of the ancient jewellery exhibits, including that of the Ephorate of the Antiquities of Cyclades, had never been shown publicly. The artifacts varied from ornate earrings, bracelets and rings in gold, bronze and silver inlaid with semi-precious stones, glass, faience and coral, to simple, talismanic beaded jewellery made from shell, bone and ivory. Diadems or headband-like crowns and brooches that served to fasten garments were also on display, exemplifying the fashion synonymous with ancient Greece.
“The exhibition focussed on Cycladic jewellery, presenting mostly unknown treasures from the unique diachrony of seven millennia of culture in the Cyclades, revealing the historical depth of a very human trait: vanity,” said archaeologist Maria Koutsoumpou, one of Vanity’s curators. The jewellery was occasionally supplemented with other pieces of art such as two wall-paintings, one depicting an Infant Christ wearing an earring, dating back to the 12th century. An icon of the Virgin wearing a fibula, or brooch, was also exhibited to “complete the lacuna of jewellery in specific periods. The supplemental artwork served to underscore the cultural importance attached to jewellery. “We see that elaborate gold jewellery has been buried with the dead and occasionally dedicated to sanctuaries as an offering to the gods ---- something that is still happening in Greek churches,” said designer Ileana Makri, who designed a necklace for the exhibit. Collectively, Vanity’s bejewelled artifacts encompassed varying levels of craftsmanship, from primitive and simplistic to sophisticated and intricate, though all denoted a marker of an advanced civilization: a desire for adornment. “The creation of jewellery, since ancient times, proves that there were flourishing civilizations in this part of the world that appreciated the craft and value of jewels,” said Makri. Koutsoumpou added, “Jewellery tradition and craftsmanship is the product of dynamic human societies, as those developed in the Cycladic islands since the sixth millennium B.C.E., thus creating a strong uninterrupted tradition.”
THE THREAD CONNECTING ANCIENT AND CURRENT JEWELLERY DESIGN
For Koutsoumpou, vanity functioned as the thread that connected ancient and current jewellery design. “Contemporary jewellery expands the narrative of the exhibition to the present, associating it to modern life,” she explained. Fashion editor Michael Pandos, who curated the twelve contemporary designers featured in the exhibit, acknowledged that the current crop of Greek jewellers seemed to defy even the oft-cited logic that Greece’s rich history is responsible for the country’s effluence of talent. “A strong new wave of Greek modern designers have come to recognition the last few years, giving a new aura to Greek jewellery,” he said.
JEWELLERY AS A HISTORY-TELLER
“Jewellery in Greece has always been a ‘history teller,” said Ioanna Souflia, a designer who created a pair of earrings for the exhibit. “Jewellery is evidence of the times it was created, both cultural and social.” However, Greek jewellers see themselves as less of a phenomenon, successful and pervasive despite their country’s instability, and as more of a natural byproduct of millenniums of design excellence.
CONTINUING TRADITIONS / NEW WAVE.
“Jewellery-making has been practiced in Greece for thousands of years and as a result we currently have amazing craftsmen and extremely talented designers who not only continue the tradition but also introduce new forms and designs in the international jewellery designer scene,” said Elena Syraka, another of Vanity’s twelve modern designers, who often references symbols of ancient Greek mythology in her work. “Attention to detail, inspiration from the vivid nature and colours of Greece and a strong heritage in fine and creative arts seem to be guiding modern jewellery creators.” In addition to Syraka, Souflia, Makri and Koulis, pieces were commissioned for Vanity from Lito, Yannis Sergakis, Sophia Kokosalaki, Venyx by Eugenie Niarchos, Deux Hommes, Minas, Two is Company and Sofia Vamiali.
HISTORY AND TRADITION, INTERPRETED UNIQUELY.
“Being a self-taught designer, history and tradition work both as an inspiration and a guide for me,” said designer Lito Karakostanoglou, who is known for unique interpretations of classic motifs like the evil eye and a honeycomb pattern. Her offerings, including the choker she designed for Vanity, focussed on clean, fundamental shapes. “Greek freedom of expression, the belief that anything is possible, as well as respect for [jewellery-making] materials have been a huge influence,” she said. Souflia, whose signature is her combination of typical fine jewellery materials like gold and diamonds with unconventional ones like marble from the island of Thassos, echoed Karakostanoglou’s reverence for her heritage.
SEEING BEAUTY AND ARTISTRY TOGETHER.
“Jewellery is a medium that Greeks become familiar with at an early age, and learn to see not only the beauty but also the artistry of the object, and the endless possibilities for creators to form and evolve metals or stones into beautiful adornments with strong messages and meanings,” said Souflia. “I came to appreciate the finesse and effortless beauty of Greek jewellery, as well as the impeccable craftsmanship. The combination of those two I believe shaped me as a designer.”
ICONIC IMAGES, MODERN SYMBOLS.
Syraka, who created a pendant for the exhibition redolent of the symbol for the ancient Greek deity Artemis, took a literal approach to maintaining her connection to ancient Greek jewellery. “My creative goal is to translate powerful and iconic images of Ancient Greece to modern symbols, creating contemporary jewels that have their own distinct character. At the same time, I hope to present the rich heritage of Greece to a wider audience ---- my jewels becoming contemporary ambassadors of ancient forms and history.”
(Article and photos: national jeweler, observer, epitome, myconian collection magazine.)
