05/26/2026
There is just something so alluring about the sumptuous purple of an amethyst, especially when it's used as a pop of colour against a monochrome background - and the Belle Epoque jewellers knew exactly how to use bold, saturated amethysts to draw attention to the delicacy of the mount against the white of those diamonds.
The Belle Epoque, or 'Beautiful Era', began in the early 1870s and continued until the outbreak of World War 1 in 1914. The designs, much like the society of the time, were luxurious, elegant and expensive, though the craftsmanship was delicate and the jewellers touch seems minimal, which belies the reality of the skill requires.
Designs became much more open, the visible metalwork begins to recede and instead our eyes are drawn to the gemstones. Often a statement of wealth,
'white gems' such as diamond and pearls (the most costly gems of their day) come to the fore, and coloured stones are used more sparingly, or for design purposes.
Here is a perfect example of how their designs seem to signify nature tamed; delicate foliage and floral motifs constructed into neat, symmetrical arrangements. I think here, there is a stylistic nod to the Art Nouveau movement that would follow.
Generally, the use of platinum is a typical characteristic of Belle Epoque jewels; prior to the 1890s it had not been possible to use platinum in jewellery as its melting point was too high. However when technological advances overcame this hurdle, it allowed for these much more delicate designs to develop and the amount of metal required in a piece to reduce, and platinum is much harder than silver or gold. Previously, as is the case with Lot 229, jewels were made in silver on gold backing.
