31/07/2026
While the rest of the collecting world is still focused on the auction results at Monaco last weekend, this gold-filled square is sitting here quietly proving that the real power moves never needed a spotlight. Enter the 1971 Omega De Ville Super-Emeraude, Ref. 551.070. The one they call the “Sugar Cube”. Thick, unapologetic, and still looking like it arrived from a parallel decade where Swiss factories actually listened to jewelers.
Andrew Grima did not design watches because he needed the time. He famously said that if you need to know the time, you ask your chauffeur. Omega somehow talked him into it anyway. In 1969 they commissioned the experimental ‘About Time’ pieces; sculpture that happened to tell time. Then the commercial fallout arrived: the Emerald line, 1971 to 1973 only. Grima’s rule was simple and radical. Build the watch around the dial. The case, the crystal, the proportions all had to serve the face, not the other way around.
This Super-Emeraude is inspired by Grima’s philosophy. Emerald-cut crystal with sharp, architectural facets that catch light like a cut stone. A champagne dial with the absolute minimum of indexes. The ultra-thin automatic Caliber 663 humming underneath.
The case itself is pure 1970s confidence; stepped, geometric, almost brutal in its thickness for a dress watch. Gold-filled, yes, but on the wrist it feels denser and more intentional than most of its solid-gold contemporaries. Most of these have disappeared into jewelry boxes or got polished into anonymity. The ones that survive with original dial, hands, crystal, and that unmistakable ‘Grima’ geometry are the ones that make serious Omega collectors sit up.
Short production window. Strong design DNA. This is not a watch that asks for permission. It is the one that still looks modern fifty-five years later because the man who shaped it never cared about looking modern in the first place. He just cared about making something that felt inevitable.
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